To put it into perspective, You simply state "don't over-tighten them" and "tighten the piss out of it" for the hub nut. No cleaning + acetone to the tapered fit steering components so they donl't just spin when using the torque wrench for correct tightness of the castle nuts. The entire video also goes south at the installation of the pitman arm, the tie-rod end, and the hub bearing retaining nut back into place. These are critical steering components and it only takes one accident that kills someone + this video, then you + your shop would be buried in lawsuits. You can choose to disagree and your "Arm" may be calibrated well enough, but not using a torque wrench suddenly becomes a serious liability for you and your shop. It only takes a few seconds to torque something properly while your there to improve the standards of what a shop does. Not trying to be an A-hole or a troll, just a truck owner who expects a high degree of professionalism and care for proper methods. I however do not agree that you did not use a proper torque wrench on any of the bolts or the steering components. Rawze Wrote:Pretty decent video, thanks for sharing. Just posting the video here to show what Hendrickson king pins.bushings look like). (warning, this guy fails to properly torque things and makes several mistakes, especially towards the end. I found a video on youtube for this but the guy never used a torque wrench on any of the critical steering components, so I would not recommend following it unless you use the manual instead. When you replace the bushings, you have to precision machine the brass with a reamer and guide before installing them into the housings for proper fit to match the wear of the non-replaceable king pin. They are also typically a bit larger diameter than most other types of axle king pins. On my model Hendrickson front axles, you don't replace the king pins, they are hardened and non-replaceable. However, Every type of axle is different. Here is a procedure for many types of front axles.
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